Tuesday, October 30, 2012

A hidden Kathmandu delight: Amitabha monastery



There are a handful of sites which make the mandatory check list for any visit to Kathmandu. You've probably run across the names Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Bhaktapur, and maybe even Nagarkot... even if you can't quite pronounce them all.

One gem of a site that often gets overlooked is Amitabha monastery, also affectionately referred to by locals as the White Gumba (Gumba means 'temple' in Nepalese, not these). We were fortunate enough to have our local hosts escort us out to Amitabha one sunny Saturday afternoon and were pleasantly surprised with what we found.

Main hall of Amitabha

A few fun facts

Amitabha gets overlooked by many for a few reasons.

First, it's only open to the public on Saturday. If your schedule doesn't have you in Kathmandu on Saturday, a trip here would really only give you a nice view of the gate, and maybe some irritated monks (note: these are nowhere near as amusing as irritated monkeys).

Second, it's not exactly the easiest place to get to. It's quite a hike if you're coming from Thamel, like most travelers are; from Thamel, it's more than twice the distance of Swayambhunath and is up in a quite hilly area. That, along with the often confusing bus system means that a taxi or private car is probably your best bet here.

Still, hiking would not be the worst option in the world for those up to the challenge. The area is quite scenic once you get outside Ring Road, and the hills could even serve as a warm-up for your upcoming treks. Just be sure to bring a comfortable pair of shoes!

The hills are alive with the sound of Buddhist chanting music

The payoff

So why should this be on your list of places to see in Kathmandu?

Well first, it's far enough out of town that the surrounding area is quite pleasant, and Amitabha's elevated position gives it quite the good view.

A Buddha's eye view of Kathmandu
The grounds themselves are also quite expansive and highly elaborate. The giant golden Buddha atop the hill is preceded by cascading statues all the way up the grounds. The entire hike up the giant staircase, you'll pass by numerous murals, fountains and statues, each more ornate than the last.

The front gate of White Gumbanot so white

The true draw here for me though was the interior of the main temple hall itself. This is the most elegant, colorful Buddhist temple I have ever laid eyes on, and I've seen quite a few. The overload of colors is simply amazing; it is a feast for the eyes that truly has to be seen to be appreciated. The monks must agree with me as they have unfortunately forbidden photography. Tis a shame that I cannot share its beauty, but luckily there's enough else going on here to keep the photogs happy.

So for the traveler that has seen it all in Kathmandu, I offer up the White Gumba. You won't be disappointed!

Have any hidden gems of your own you'd like to share? Let us know!

Having learned our lesson, we chose to forgo the 3-day overland transit this time and just fly to make our transfer from Delhi to Istanbul. Look forward to reports from Turkey in the near future.

For more pictures of Amitabha, check out the folder on my Flickr account.

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